The Foodie’s Guide to Oaxaca

Elotes and esquites with chapulines.

Over the past decade, Oaxaca has broken through their beach reputation and become known as a foodie destination, supported by the soaring popularity of mezcal, its native spirit.

Tlayuda with tasajo meat (thin beef flank).

The flavors of Oaxacan cuisine own a distinctive intensity, unlike the cuisine in any other part of Mexico, that focus on fresh local ingredients that you can’t find outside this specific region. The food has been described as either fruity-spicy thanks for the various types of chiles grown, or toasty thanks to all the spices and heirloom corn found everywhere you go. The city is filled with an unlimited number of restaurants that highlight these special flavors and we’re here to give you a few of our favorites.

For lunch, we recommend La Popular, recognized by its bright yellow facade that exudes a relaxed and easy vibe. It is one of the best casual spots in downtown, mostly known for their tlayudas, seasonal soup, or quesadillas with squash flower (flor de calabaza). A tlayuda is a traditional dish that consists of a large, thin, crunchy, partially fried tortilla covered with refried beans, asiento, lettuce or cabbage, avocado, meat, Oaxaca cheese, and salsa. If you need something to wash it down, their Mexican artesanal beer selection is one of the best. This place was is so delicious, that it’s become our first go-to restaurant when we’re in town!

It wouldn’t be a trip to Mexico without a late night stop to a street stand. These small hole-in-the-wall places offer some of the best kept food a secret, offering a true taste into the texture, flavor, and color of what is Oaxaca. Don’t miss out on El Lechoncito de Oro that specializes in seared pork tacos. If you save enough room for dessert, be sure to try their traditional heated dessert beverage called chocolate atole.

Another great option for late night that you can find right at the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán are elotes ó esquites con chapulines. Order this tasty late night snack “con todo” with fresh squeezed lime juice, mayo, crumbled cheese, chile powder, and crickets.

If you’re looking for something a little more formal, stop at Tierra del Sol which has a beautiful rooftop patio with large white umbrellas and canopies. Ask the waiter or waitress for their recommendation and let them bring you multiple dishes to share. Los Danzantes also offers a formal, artsy space featuring rustic food and an extensive list of local mezcal.

Known for their moles, Las Quince Letras, has almost ten different variations you can try, even offering you the chance to choose two or three moles (separated by rice) so you don’t have to choose! If you go with someone else, convince them to get the other moles so you can try them all. Their mezcal drinks are delicious and their artesanal beers and ice cold.

Refreshing tejate, which can be found in the local markets or on various street corners.

Of course, to find the best flavors, you can go directly to the source. Mercado de Abastos is Oaxaca’s largest market, a colorful showcase of everything the city has to offer. This is the place where locals go to buy everything. Just keep an eye on your bags and belongings, and go during the day time. If you’re worried about sticking out like a flamingo in a flock of pigeons, go to Mercado 20 de Noviembre, right off the main zócalo. Here you can try tlayudas, tamales, tejate (pre-hispanic drink made from toasted maize, fermented cacao (chocolate) beans, toasted mamey (a tropical fruit) pits, and flor (flower) de cacao), quesillo (creamy, mild, salty cheese), chapulines (crickets), or carne asada in their grilled meat hall. We have no doubt you’ll be visiting this market more than once just to go back and try something new.

The best part about Oaxaca? No matter what time of year you go, the mezcal is always flowing. Although the city provides an unlimited amount of mezcalerías, the best way to experience the state’s native spirit is to get outside of the city and explore the small communities and farms (palenques) that make it. These farms have been producing mezcal in the same way for generations, typically serving mole, bread, and chocolate to accompany it.

Don’t have time to head out to a palenque in Santiago Matatlán? Lucky for you there are plenty of places in Oaxaca Centro that have great mezcal options. In Sítu is a tiny mezcalería with lots high quality varieties to sample. They source their mezcal from a variety of nearby farms. Sabina Sabe is the perfect bar for delicious mezcal cocktails. If you’re hungry, their food offers a great compliment to their mezcal selection. La Mezcalerita is one of our favorites, not only for their huge selection of mezcal, but also for their extensive artesanal beer list from Oaxaca and all over Mexico. Their big patio is perfect for watching the sunset.

There is always a reason to go to Oaxaca. Wherever you stay, whenever you go and whatever experiences await, the city always extends a warm welcome. Even if you don't consider yourself a foodie, our curated trips come up with plenty of reasons to enjoy the rich history and culture.