The History of Oaxaca

With more than 310 miles of Pacific Coast beaches, archeological ruins, colonial architecture, mountains, valleys and a mild climate, Oaxaca attracts visitors from around the world and has become a top tourist destination.

While there are officially 16 indigenous groups in Oaxaca, every group actually has hundreds of subgroups, each distinguished by unique linguistic and social traditions. Oaxaca, like the nearby states of Guerrero and Chiapas, contains a startlingly diverse range of indigenous cultures with roots that reach back many centuries.

Oaxaca's origins are in the Aztec settlement of Huaxyácac, from which its name is derived. The Spanish laid out a new town around the Zócalo in 1529, and it quickly became the most important place in southern Mexico. Learning the history will enrich your experience while traveling there!

Early History

Mitla, Oaxaca, the main religious center for the Zapotecas.

Mitla, Oaxaca, the main religious center for the Zapotecas.

Between approximately 1500 and 500 BC, the Zapotecan city of San José Mogote (now the state of Oaxaca) was the largest and most important settlement in the region. Historians estimate that during the pre-colonial period, Oaxaca was home to 16 separate cultures, each with its own language, customs and traditions. The Zapotecas and Mixtecas constituted the largest and most sophisticated societies with villages and farmlands located throughout the region.

The Zapotecas were the earliest to gain dominance over the Central Valley region. The first archeological site was located at Monte Albán, which flourished from 500BC until 750 AD. At its height, Monte Albán was home to some 25,000 people and was the capital city of the Zapotec nation. It remained the center of power until the Mixtecas overran it in 1325. However, the Mixtecas did not always inhabit Oaxaca. Before migrating, the Mixtecas lived in the southern portions of Guerrero and Puebla. By the end of the 7th century, they had established themselves in the western and central parts of Oaxaca, building cities such as Apoala and Tilantongo. During the 13th century is when the Mixtecas continued to move south and east, eventually invading the Central Valley and conquering the Zapotecas.

By the 15th century, the Aztecs had arrived in Oaxaca and quickly conquered the local inhabitants, establishing an outpost on the Cerro del Fortín. Consequently, trade with Tenochtitlán and other cities to the north increased, but the basic style of living was unchanged by the Aztec presence. However, very soon after the fall of Tenochtitlan (Mexico City) in 1521, Spaniards arrived in Oaxaca. Moctezuma II had informed Hernán Cortés that the area had gold. The Spanish easily overcame the main Aztec military stronghold only four months after.

Fast forward to the 18th century, Oaxaca grew rich from the export of cochineal (a red dye made from insects living on the prickly pear cactus) and from textile weaving. By 1796 it was probably the third-biggest city in Nueva España with about 20,000 people and 800 cotton looms. By 1810, the city of Oaxaca had 18,000 inhabitants, most of whom were mestizos (of both Indigenous and European descent). Because of this, during the Mexican War of Independence, the government of this area remained loyal to the Spanish Crown.

Recent History

During the 19th century, two Oaxacans played an important role in Mexican history - Benito Juárez and Porfirio Díaz. Benito Juárez became Mexico’s first Indian president in 1858 and served several terms. Porfirio Díaz contended for the presidency several times before assuming power in 1877. He ruled initially from 1877 to 1880 and again from 1884 to 1911.

Naturally-dyed wool from Teotitlán del Valle.

Naturally-dyed wool from Teotitlán del Valle.

When the Mexican Revolution began in 1910, Oaxaca, like many southern states, rallied around the revolutionary Emiliano Zapata who fought for the fact that the land belonged to the workers. This was especially important to Oaxacans since many of them were being exploited by the large landowners.

Current History

Oaxaca’s major expansion has come in the past 30 years, with tourism, new businesses and rural poverty all encouraging migration from the countryside. The country’s rugged terrain means that many indigenous communities remain isolated - roughly 50% of the state’s population are non-Spanish speakers. Through this, indigenous arts and crafts have become the state’s most important exports.

One of the major exports are rugs and textiles. These primarily come from Teotitlán del Valle, which was the first city founded by the Zapotecas. It is a tiny village nestled in the foothills that back up to the Sierra Juarez mountains and one of the only villages that still uses hand-operated looms, wool obtained from local sheep, and dyed with natural dyes. They combine historical Zapotec designs with contemporary designs to create beautiful pieces that are sold locally and shipped throughout the world.

Another major export is pottery - red, green, and black. Today there are around 70 villages in which the majority of people make and sell pottery. Apart from Santa María de Atzompa, which uses green glaze, and San Bartolo where the clay is fired to black, the pottery in San Marcos Tlapazola is simple, brown or red.

Thanks to these long-standing traditions, the indigenous people of Oaxaca are able to continue to support their families and spread the traditions of their ancestors and cultures. If you haven’t already been to Oaxaca, this is definitely the off-the-beaten-path destination you’ve been looking for. There are so many things to do and so much to learn about.

Are you a history fan? Are you curious to learn about other people’s cultures and other country’s histories? Then have we got the trip for you! Join us in Oaxaca and learn more about the rich history, visit cultural sites and ruins, and learn about different techniques that are still engrained in the culture today.

Nick Marranzino